Mountain bikes are revolved around 4 different types of suspension, each has its benefits and each for a different type of bike. You may find this information useful...
1. Hardtail - A frame with no rear suspension, often containing a front suspension fork.
2. Fully rigid - This is a sub type of hardtail, with a rigid fork.
3. Dual or full suspension - These bikes offer a front suspension fork and a rear suspension that are integrated into the frame.
4. Soft tail - Offers a frame with a small amount of rear suspension, normally less than a full suspension frame.
The different designs of bikes in mountain biking will offer you what you need for your unique style
of riding. You'll want a different bike for different terrain, such as cross country or downhill. As the terrain changes, you'll want to make sure you have the right bike for the job.
Mountain biking is different than any other sport, offering you plenty of excitement and thrills. If you are new to mountain biking, you'll find the different designs to be very enticing yet very challenging at the same time. Each design serves a purpose with mountain biking, even some that excel on the trails.
There are also several other designs which reflect on the many challenging disciplines in the sport
of mountain biking. No matter what type of mountain biking you like to do, there are bikes for that specific discipline.
If you are new to mountain biking, you'll want to check out the many designs and types of biking
before you purchase a bike. Mountain biking can be a lot of fun and excitement, although it can
also be very dangerous if you don't have the right bike for the terrain. Before you decide to buy a bike and hit the trails, make sure you have the right design of mountain bike for the riding you are planning on doing.
Thursday 27 March 2014
Thursday 20 March 2014
The Parts Of A Mountain Bike
There are many pieces that together make up a mountain bike, there might be a time where you need to find out what one part is but you might have no idea what it is, hopefully this anatomy of a mountain bike will let you know how to tell things apart.
1. Bottom bracket - This attaches the crankset to the body of a bike.
2. Brake cable - This is the cable that connects the brake lever to the brake mechanism.
3. Brake lever - The lever on the handlebar to activate the brakes. The left side is the front brake and the right side is the rear brake.
4. Chain - The circular set of links that transfer power from the chain ring to the cogs.
5. Chain ring - The toothed rings that attach to the crank to hold the chain.
6. Crank - The lever that extends from the bottom bracket to the pedal, transferring the power to the
chain rings.
7. Derailleur - The mechanism for moving the chain from one cog to another.
8. Down tube - The section of frame that extends downward from the stem to the bottom bracket.
9. Front shock - The shock absorber on the front fork.
10. Handlebar - The horizontal bar attached to the stem with handgrips on the end.
11. Headset - The mechanism in front of the frame that connects the front fork to the stem and
handlebars.
12. Hub - The center part of the wheel that the spokes are attached to.
13. Idler pulley - The bottom pulley of the rear derailleur that provides spring tension to keep the chain tight.
14. Nipple - A threaded receptacle that holds the end of the spoke to the rim.
15. Pedal - The platform to pedal on; attaches to the crank.
16. Rear shock - The shock absorber for the rear tire on dual suspension type bikes.
17. Rim - The metal ring that holds the spokes on the inside and the tire to the outside.
18. Saddle - The seat.
19. Seat post - Offers support for the seat.
20. Skewer - The metal rod that goes through the hub, attaching the wheel to the dropouts of the
frame.
21. Spindle - The free rotating axle that the crank arms attach to; also a part of the bottom bracket.
22. Spokes - The thick wires that join the hub to the rim.
23. Stem - A piece that attaches the handlebar to the steering tube.
24. Wheel hub - The center of the wheel that the spokes are attached to.
1. Bottom bracket - This attaches the crankset to the body of a bike.
2. Brake cable - This is the cable that connects the brake lever to the brake mechanism.
3. Brake lever - The lever on the handlebar to activate the brakes. The left side is the front brake and the right side is the rear brake.
4. Chain - The circular set of links that transfer power from the chain ring to the cogs.
5. Chain ring - The toothed rings that attach to the crank to hold the chain.
6. Crank - The lever that extends from the bottom bracket to the pedal, transferring the power to the
chain rings.
7. Derailleur - The mechanism for moving the chain from one cog to another.
8. Down tube - The section of frame that extends downward from the stem to the bottom bracket.
9. Front shock - The shock absorber on the front fork.
10. Handlebar - The horizontal bar attached to the stem with handgrips on the end.
11. Headset - The mechanism in front of the frame that connects the front fork to the stem and
handlebars.
12. Hub - The center part of the wheel that the spokes are attached to.
13. Idler pulley - The bottom pulley of the rear derailleur that provides spring tension to keep the chain tight.
14. Nipple - A threaded receptacle that holds the end of the spoke to the rim.
15. Pedal - The platform to pedal on; attaches to the crank.
16. Rear shock - The shock absorber for the rear tire on dual suspension type bikes.
17. Rim - The metal ring that holds the spokes on the inside and the tire to the outside.
18. Saddle - The seat.
19. Seat post - Offers support for the seat.
20. Skewer - The metal rod that goes through the hub, attaching the wheel to the dropouts of the
frame.
21. Spindle - The free rotating axle that the crank arms attach to; also a part of the bottom bracket.
22. Spokes - The thick wires that join the hub to the rim.
23. Stem - A piece that attaches the handlebar to the steering tube.
24. Wheel hub - The center of the wheel that the spokes are attached to.
Thursday 13 March 2014
Spring Tune Up After The Winter Period
Normally the winter months people will decide to stay inside rather than go through mountain biking due to ice and the cold and the holidays etc. However, after the winter you will end up at a point where you have to start back into your sport and after a long slumber your bike is going to need a check up to make sure that it is in the right shape.
Before you take your bike out, check the wear and tear on your components and adjust them if its necessary. Start off with your chain. If you haven't replaced it in a year or more, it's time to do so. Over time, the individual parts in the chain will get worn out, increasing its effective length.
As this happens, the chain is no longer able to conform to the cog and the teeth of the chain ring, so it wears those teeth out to fit the profile of the chain. If you can replace the chain before it stretches too much you'll save yourself from having to replace high priced cogs and chain rings.
Now, check the bearing surfaces. These include your bottom bracket, hubs, and the headset. Each of these should turn without a problem with no play in the system. Before checking the bottom bracket, make sure each cranking arm is snugged tight. Next, hold on to the crank arm (not the pedal) and wobble it back and forth. If you hear any clicking or if the crank arm binds, the bottom bracket needs to be adjusted.
Do the exact same thing with your hubs. Take the wheels off the bike, spin the hub axles, then feel for any free play or binding. If you feel play or binding, you need to make an adjustment. To check
the headset, start off by putting the newly adjusted wheels back on the bike.
Now, grab the front brake and pull and push the handle bars back and forth. There shouldn't be any
play. If you lift the front end off the ground, the fork should turn very smoothly. If it feels rough, it needs to be either adjusted or replaced.
While your looking, check the condition of your cables and housing. The cables should be rust free and the housing shouldn't be cracked or kinked. If you see any of this you should replace the offending device, as if you don't your shifting and braking will be sluggish.
Last, you should inspect your brake pads. Most pads will have ridges or indicator marks that will let you know when they need to be replaced. Brake pads that are worn out will compromise both safety and braking efficiency.
Once you've got the tune ups out of the way, it's time to go for a ride. With your mountain bike running better than ever, all you have to do now is have fun!
Before you take your bike out, check the wear and tear on your components and adjust them if its necessary. Start off with your chain. If you haven't replaced it in a year or more, it's time to do so. Over time, the individual parts in the chain will get worn out, increasing its effective length.
As this happens, the chain is no longer able to conform to the cog and the teeth of the chain ring, so it wears those teeth out to fit the profile of the chain. If you can replace the chain before it stretches too much you'll save yourself from having to replace high priced cogs and chain rings.
Now, check the bearing surfaces. These include your bottom bracket, hubs, and the headset. Each of these should turn without a problem with no play in the system. Before checking the bottom bracket, make sure each cranking arm is snugged tight. Next, hold on to the crank arm (not the pedal) and wobble it back and forth. If you hear any clicking or if the crank arm binds, the bottom bracket needs to be adjusted.
Do the exact same thing with your hubs. Take the wheels off the bike, spin the hub axles, then feel for any free play or binding. If you feel play or binding, you need to make an adjustment. To check
the headset, start off by putting the newly adjusted wheels back on the bike.
Now, grab the front brake and pull and push the handle bars back and forth. There shouldn't be any
play. If you lift the front end off the ground, the fork should turn very smoothly. If it feels rough, it needs to be either adjusted or replaced.
While your looking, check the condition of your cables and housing. The cables should be rust free and the housing shouldn't be cracked or kinked. If you see any of this you should replace the offending device, as if you don't your shifting and braking will be sluggish.
Last, you should inspect your brake pads. Most pads will have ridges or indicator marks that will let you know when they need to be replaced. Brake pads that are worn out will compromise both safety and braking efficiency.
Once you've got the tune ups out of the way, it's time to go for a ride. With your mountain bike running better than ever, all you have to do now is have fun!
Thursday 6 March 2014
Maintenance - Your Bike Tire Pressure
When it comes down to the tires you want to make sure that they have enough pressure, by doing this you can increase control of your bike but you have to make sure that you have enough pressure every time before you go riding. You will damage your wheel pressure regularly during your rides so make sure to keep it up.
Setting your tire pressure too high will make for poor contact with the ground and also make your bike less controllable. Setting your tire pressure too low will make your tires unpredictable and also
make them susceptible to pinch flats.
The appropriate amount of tire pressure in a mountain bike will vary between rider to rider and tire setup to tire setup. The conditions of your trail and the type of terrain your riding will also greatly impact what tire pressure you should be using in your tires.
The trick here is to find out exactly what mountain bike tire pressure works for you and your setup during normal conditions. After doing this, you can learn to adjust your pressure for different trails and types of terrain as needed.
You should start by finding a reliable pressure gauge or a pump with a pressure gauge. Then, use this same gauge or pump anytime you are making adjustments. A gauge can be very inaccurate, so if you switch around it you can make things much more difficult.
You should start with a higher pressure of around 40 - 50 psi. If you have a tubeless system, you should start lower, 30 - 40 psi. The more you weigh, the higher pressure you should start with. Try this pressure for a while and get a feel for how the tires take corners and loose dirt.
Drop the pressure by 5 psi in each tire and get a feel for how this new setup rides and how it compares to your previous setting. You should notice some improvement in stability, and if you don't, drop the pressure by another 5 psi.
You want to find the lowest pressure you can ride with without sacrificing pinch flat resistance. A pinch flat occurs when your tire rolls over an object then compresses to the point where the tire and the tube get pinched between the object and the rim on the wheel.
With tubeless tire systems, you can run much lower air pressure, as you don't have to worry about getting pinch flats. If you start to dent your rims, burp air out along the bead, or feel the tire roll under the rim during hard cornering, you've taken the pressure much too low.
Once you've found a comfortable setting for your tire pressure, learn what your tire feels like when you squeeze it with your hands. Once you know what your tires feel like you can always get the right air pressure - with any pump.
You will be able to tell how much easier it is to ride when you have a bike that has the proper pressure.
Setting your tire pressure too high will make for poor contact with the ground and also make your bike less controllable. Setting your tire pressure too low will make your tires unpredictable and also
make them susceptible to pinch flats.
The appropriate amount of tire pressure in a mountain bike will vary between rider to rider and tire setup to tire setup. The conditions of your trail and the type of terrain your riding will also greatly impact what tire pressure you should be using in your tires.
The trick here is to find out exactly what mountain bike tire pressure works for you and your setup during normal conditions. After doing this, you can learn to adjust your pressure for different trails and types of terrain as needed.
You should start by finding a reliable pressure gauge or a pump with a pressure gauge. Then, use this same gauge or pump anytime you are making adjustments. A gauge can be very inaccurate, so if you switch around it you can make things much more difficult.
You should start with a higher pressure of around 40 - 50 psi. If you have a tubeless system, you should start lower, 30 - 40 psi. The more you weigh, the higher pressure you should start with. Try this pressure for a while and get a feel for how the tires take corners and loose dirt.
Drop the pressure by 5 psi in each tire and get a feel for how this new setup rides and how it compares to your previous setting. You should notice some improvement in stability, and if you don't, drop the pressure by another 5 psi.
You want to find the lowest pressure you can ride with without sacrificing pinch flat resistance. A pinch flat occurs when your tire rolls over an object then compresses to the point where the tire and the tube get pinched between the object and the rim on the wheel.
With tubeless tire systems, you can run much lower air pressure, as you don't have to worry about getting pinch flats. If you start to dent your rims, burp air out along the bead, or feel the tire roll under the rim during hard cornering, you've taken the pressure much too low.
Once you've found a comfortable setting for your tire pressure, learn what your tire feels like when you squeeze it with your hands. Once you know what your tires feel like you can always get the right air pressure - with any pump.
You will be able to tell how much easier it is to ride when you have a bike that has the proper pressure.
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