Mountain bikes are revolved around 4 different types of suspension, each has its benefits and each for a different type of bike. You may find this information useful...
1. Hardtail - A frame with no rear suspension, often containing a front suspension fork.
2. Fully rigid - This is a sub type of hardtail, with a rigid fork.
3. Dual or full suspension - These bikes offer a front suspension fork and a rear suspension that are integrated into the frame.
4. Soft tail - Offers a frame with a small amount of rear suspension, normally less than a full suspension frame.
The different designs of bikes in mountain biking will offer you what you need for your unique style
of riding. You'll want a different bike for different terrain, such as cross country or downhill. As the terrain changes, you'll want to make sure you have the right bike for the job.
Mountain biking is different than any other sport, offering you plenty of excitement and thrills. If you are new to mountain biking, you'll find the different designs to be very enticing yet very challenging at the same time. Each design serves a purpose with mountain biking, even some that excel on the trails.
There are also several other designs which reflect on the many challenging disciplines in the sport
of mountain biking. No matter what type of mountain biking you like to do, there are bikes for that specific discipline.
If you are new to mountain biking, you'll want to check out the many designs and types of biking
before you purchase a bike. Mountain biking can be a lot of fun and excitement, although it can
also be very dangerous if you don't have the right bike for the terrain. Before you decide to buy a bike and hit the trails, make sure you have the right design of mountain bike for the riding you are planning on doing.
Thursday 27 March 2014
Thursday 20 March 2014
The Parts Of A Mountain Bike
There are many pieces that together make up a mountain bike, there might be a time where you need to find out what one part is but you might have no idea what it is, hopefully this anatomy of a mountain bike will let you know how to tell things apart.
1. Bottom bracket - This attaches the crankset to the body of a bike.
2. Brake cable - This is the cable that connects the brake lever to the brake mechanism.
3. Brake lever - The lever on the handlebar to activate the brakes. The left side is the front brake and the right side is the rear brake.
4. Chain - The circular set of links that transfer power from the chain ring to the cogs.
5. Chain ring - The toothed rings that attach to the crank to hold the chain.
6. Crank - The lever that extends from the bottom bracket to the pedal, transferring the power to the
chain rings.
7. Derailleur - The mechanism for moving the chain from one cog to another.
8. Down tube - The section of frame that extends downward from the stem to the bottom bracket.
9. Front shock - The shock absorber on the front fork.
10. Handlebar - The horizontal bar attached to the stem with handgrips on the end.
11. Headset - The mechanism in front of the frame that connects the front fork to the stem and
handlebars.
12. Hub - The center part of the wheel that the spokes are attached to.
13. Idler pulley - The bottom pulley of the rear derailleur that provides spring tension to keep the chain tight.
14. Nipple - A threaded receptacle that holds the end of the spoke to the rim.
15. Pedal - The platform to pedal on; attaches to the crank.
16. Rear shock - The shock absorber for the rear tire on dual suspension type bikes.
17. Rim - The metal ring that holds the spokes on the inside and the tire to the outside.
18. Saddle - The seat.
19. Seat post - Offers support for the seat.
20. Skewer - The metal rod that goes through the hub, attaching the wheel to the dropouts of the
frame.
21. Spindle - The free rotating axle that the crank arms attach to; also a part of the bottom bracket.
22. Spokes - The thick wires that join the hub to the rim.
23. Stem - A piece that attaches the handlebar to the steering tube.
24. Wheel hub - The center of the wheel that the spokes are attached to.
1. Bottom bracket - This attaches the crankset to the body of a bike.
2. Brake cable - This is the cable that connects the brake lever to the brake mechanism.
3. Brake lever - The lever on the handlebar to activate the brakes. The left side is the front brake and the right side is the rear brake.
4. Chain - The circular set of links that transfer power from the chain ring to the cogs.
5. Chain ring - The toothed rings that attach to the crank to hold the chain.
6. Crank - The lever that extends from the bottom bracket to the pedal, transferring the power to the
chain rings.
7. Derailleur - The mechanism for moving the chain from one cog to another.
8. Down tube - The section of frame that extends downward from the stem to the bottom bracket.
9. Front shock - The shock absorber on the front fork.
10. Handlebar - The horizontal bar attached to the stem with handgrips on the end.
11. Headset - The mechanism in front of the frame that connects the front fork to the stem and
handlebars.
12. Hub - The center part of the wheel that the spokes are attached to.
13. Idler pulley - The bottom pulley of the rear derailleur that provides spring tension to keep the chain tight.
14. Nipple - A threaded receptacle that holds the end of the spoke to the rim.
15. Pedal - The platform to pedal on; attaches to the crank.
16. Rear shock - The shock absorber for the rear tire on dual suspension type bikes.
17. Rim - The metal ring that holds the spokes on the inside and the tire to the outside.
18. Saddle - The seat.
19. Seat post - Offers support for the seat.
20. Skewer - The metal rod that goes through the hub, attaching the wheel to the dropouts of the
frame.
21. Spindle - The free rotating axle that the crank arms attach to; also a part of the bottom bracket.
22. Spokes - The thick wires that join the hub to the rim.
23. Stem - A piece that attaches the handlebar to the steering tube.
24. Wheel hub - The center of the wheel that the spokes are attached to.
Thursday 13 March 2014
Spring Tune Up After The Winter Period
Normally the winter months people will decide to stay inside rather than go through mountain biking due to ice and the cold and the holidays etc. However, after the winter you will end up at a point where you have to start back into your sport and after a long slumber your bike is going to need a check up to make sure that it is in the right shape.
Before you take your bike out, check the wear and tear on your components and adjust them if its necessary. Start off with your chain. If you haven't replaced it in a year or more, it's time to do so. Over time, the individual parts in the chain will get worn out, increasing its effective length.
As this happens, the chain is no longer able to conform to the cog and the teeth of the chain ring, so it wears those teeth out to fit the profile of the chain. If you can replace the chain before it stretches too much you'll save yourself from having to replace high priced cogs and chain rings.
Now, check the bearing surfaces. These include your bottom bracket, hubs, and the headset. Each of these should turn without a problem with no play in the system. Before checking the bottom bracket, make sure each cranking arm is snugged tight. Next, hold on to the crank arm (not the pedal) and wobble it back and forth. If you hear any clicking or if the crank arm binds, the bottom bracket needs to be adjusted.
Do the exact same thing with your hubs. Take the wheels off the bike, spin the hub axles, then feel for any free play or binding. If you feel play or binding, you need to make an adjustment. To check
the headset, start off by putting the newly adjusted wheels back on the bike.
Now, grab the front brake and pull and push the handle bars back and forth. There shouldn't be any
play. If you lift the front end off the ground, the fork should turn very smoothly. If it feels rough, it needs to be either adjusted or replaced.
While your looking, check the condition of your cables and housing. The cables should be rust free and the housing shouldn't be cracked or kinked. If you see any of this you should replace the offending device, as if you don't your shifting and braking will be sluggish.
Last, you should inspect your brake pads. Most pads will have ridges or indicator marks that will let you know when they need to be replaced. Brake pads that are worn out will compromise both safety and braking efficiency.
Once you've got the tune ups out of the way, it's time to go for a ride. With your mountain bike running better than ever, all you have to do now is have fun!
Before you take your bike out, check the wear and tear on your components and adjust them if its necessary. Start off with your chain. If you haven't replaced it in a year or more, it's time to do so. Over time, the individual parts in the chain will get worn out, increasing its effective length.
As this happens, the chain is no longer able to conform to the cog and the teeth of the chain ring, so it wears those teeth out to fit the profile of the chain. If you can replace the chain before it stretches too much you'll save yourself from having to replace high priced cogs and chain rings.
Now, check the bearing surfaces. These include your bottom bracket, hubs, and the headset. Each of these should turn without a problem with no play in the system. Before checking the bottom bracket, make sure each cranking arm is snugged tight. Next, hold on to the crank arm (not the pedal) and wobble it back and forth. If you hear any clicking or if the crank arm binds, the bottom bracket needs to be adjusted.
Do the exact same thing with your hubs. Take the wheels off the bike, spin the hub axles, then feel for any free play or binding. If you feel play or binding, you need to make an adjustment. To check
the headset, start off by putting the newly adjusted wheels back on the bike.
Now, grab the front brake and pull and push the handle bars back and forth. There shouldn't be any
play. If you lift the front end off the ground, the fork should turn very smoothly. If it feels rough, it needs to be either adjusted or replaced.
While your looking, check the condition of your cables and housing. The cables should be rust free and the housing shouldn't be cracked or kinked. If you see any of this you should replace the offending device, as if you don't your shifting and braking will be sluggish.
Last, you should inspect your brake pads. Most pads will have ridges or indicator marks that will let you know when they need to be replaced. Brake pads that are worn out will compromise both safety and braking efficiency.
Once you've got the tune ups out of the way, it's time to go for a ride. With your mountain bike running better than ever, all you have to do now is have fun!
Thursday 6 March 2014
Maintenance - Your Bike Tire Pressure
When it comes down to the tires you want to make sure that they have enough pressure, by doing this you can increase control of your bike but you have to make sure that you have enough pressure every time before you go riding. You will damage your wheel pressure regularly during your rides so make sure to keep it up.
Setting your tire pressure too high will make for poor contact with the ground and also make your bike less controllable. Setting your tire pressure too low will make your tires unpredictable and also
make them susceptible to pinch flats.
The appropriate amount of tire pressure in a mountain bike will vary between rider to rider and tire setup to tire setup. The conditions of your trail and the type of terrain your riding will also greatly impact what tire pressure you should be using in your tires.
The trick here is to find out exactly what mountain bike tire pressure works for you and your setup during normal conditions. After doing this, you can learn to adjust your pressure for different trails and types of terrain as needed.
You should start by finding a reliable pressure gauge or a pump with a pressure gauge. Then, use this same gauge or pump anytime you are making adjustments. A gauge can be very inaccurate, so if you switch around it you can make things much more difficult.
You should start with a higher pressure of around 40 - 50 psi. If you have a tubeless system, you should start lower, 30 - 40 psi. The more you weigh, the higher pressure you should start with. Try this pressure for a while and get a feel for how the tires take corners and loose dirt.
Drop the pressure by 5 psi in each tire and get a feel for how this new setup rides and how it compares to your previous setting. You should notice some improvement in stability, and if you don't, drop the pressure by another 5 psi.
You want to find the lowest pressure you can ride with without sacrificing pinch flat resistance. A pinch flat occurs when your tire rolls over an object then compresses to the point where the tire and the tube get pinched between the object and the rim on the wheel.
With tubeless tire systems, you can run much lower air pressure, as you don't have to worry about getting pinch flats. If you start to dent your rims, burp air out along the bead, or feel the tire roll under the rim during hard cornering, you've taken the pressure much too low.
Once you've found a comfortable setting for your tire pressure, learn what your tire feels like when you squeeze it with your hands. Once you know what your tires feel like you can always get the right air pressure - with any pump.
You will be able to tell how much easier it is to ride when you have a bike that has the proper pressure.
Setting your tire pressure too high will make for poor contact with the ground and also make your bike less controllable. Setting your tire pressure too low will make your tires unpredictable and also
make them susceptible to pinch flats.
The appropriate amount of tire pressure in a mountain bike will vary between rider to rider and tire setup to tire setup. The conditions of your trail and the type of terrain your riding will also greatly impact what tire pressure you should be using in your tires.
The trick here is to find out exactly what mountain bike tire pressure works for you and your setup during normal conditions. After doing this, you can learn to adjust your pressure for different trails and types of terrain as needed.
You should start by finding a reliable pressure gauge or a pump with a pressure gauge. Then, use this same gauge or pump anytime you are making adjustments. A gauge can be very inaccurate, so if you switch around it you can make things much more difficult.
You should start with a higher pressure of around 40 - 50 psi. If you have a tubeless system, you should start lower, 30 - 40 psi. The more you weigh, the higher pressure you should start with. Try this pressure for a while and get a feel for how the tires take corners and loose dirt.
Drop the pressure by 5 psi in each tire and get a feel for how this new setup rides and how it compares to your previous setting. You should notice some improvement in stability, and if you don't, drop the pressure by another 5 psi.
You want to find the lowest pressure you can ride with without sacrificing pinch flat resistance. A pinch flat occurs when your tire rolls over an object then compresses to the point where the tire and the tube get pinched between the object and the rim on the wheel.
With tubeless tire systems, you can run much lower air pressure, as you don't have to worry about getting pinch flats. If you start to dent your rims, burp air out along the bead, or feel the tire roll under the rim during hard cornering, you've taken the pressure much too low.
Once you've found a comfortable setting for your tire pressure, learn what your tire feels like when you squeeze it with your hands. Once you know what your tires feel like you can always get the right air pressure - with any pump.
You will be able to tell how much easier it is to ride when you have a bike that has the proper pressure.
Thursday 27 February 2014
Maintenance - Lubing Your Mountain Bike
A mountain bike will need maintenance to make sure that it is at its peak performance. One of the ways to do this is to lube the bike before you go on a ride make sure that things go smoothly. It is suggested that you do this the day before so that everything is fully lubed and smooth and ready for you in the morning.
1. The chain
Apply a generous amount of mountain bike lube to your chain as you move the pedals around backwards. It also helps to find a spot to steady your hand such as the frame while you move the pedals around and around. Make sure you watch out for the cranks and chain rings as they move around.
2. Front Deraileur
On the front defaileur, lube the pivots. Use a spot of lube everywhere you can see movement when
you move the shift lever.
3. Rear deraileur
Just like the front deraileur, lube the pivots.
4. Pedals
There are some types of clipless pedals that will need to have the release mechanism lubed. You should only lube this mechanism if you have this type of pedal.
5. Everything into motion
Pedal around, shift your gears, and bounce your bike around. If you hear anything squeak, there's a moving part there are it should be lubed immediately.
6. Wipe it all clean
Once you've lubed everything and wiped it all around, simply wipe it all back off. Use a rag to wipe away all the lube you used, including all the lube off the chain. Wiping it away will leave the lube in between the parts but clean it away from everywhere it isn't needed. This will keep your bike from collecting dirt while you ride.
Maintenance is important so make sure that you take out some time from your day to make sure that something you spent a lot of money on is in great working conditions.
1. The chain
Apply a generous amount of mountain bike lube to your chain as you move the pedals around backwards. It also helps to find a spot to steady your hand such as the frame while you move the pedals around and around. Make sure you watch out for the cranks and chain rings as they move around.
2. Front Deraileur
On the front defaileur, lube the pivots. Use a spot of lube everywhere you can see movement when
you move the shift lever.
3. Rear deraileur
Just like the front deraileur, lube the pivots.
4. Pedals
There are some types of clipless pedals that will need to have the release mechanism lubed. You should only lube this mechanism if you have this type of pedal.
5. Everything into motion
Pedal around, shift your gears, and bounce your bike around. If you hear anything squeak, there's a moving part there are it should be lubed immediately.
6. Wipe it all clean
Once you've lubed everything and wiped it all around, simply wipe it all back off. Use a rag to wipe away all the lube you used, including all the lube off the chain. Wiping it away will leave the lube in between the parts but clean it away from everywhere it isn't needed. This will keep your bike from collecting dirt while you ride.
Maintenance is important so make sure that you take out some time from your day to make sure that something you spent a lot of money on is in great working conditions.
Thursday 20 February 2014
Accessories That You'll Need For Mountain Biking
One of the most confusing things that you'll have to deal with after buying a bike is what accessories are you going to need for you and your bike. There are numerous things out there and most you won't really need but you might be distracted by them. Here are some essentials that you should look for first....
There are several mountain biking accessories and related products that you can purchase. Although
the sales staff will try to sell you anything they can, the real question for those on a budget isn't what's cool, but what accessories you need to make your rides more safe and enjoyable. By starting
with these accessories, you'll be just fine when you hit the trails.
Bike helmet
The bike helmet is the most important mountain biking accessory that you can buy. No one should ever be on a bike without a helmet. There have been many people who have experienced serious head injury, when it could have prevented by wearing a helmet. All mountain bike helmets are comfortable and stylish and everyone who rides on the trails wears one.
Mountain bike gloves
No matter what season you ride in, your hands can take a beating. Beginners will normally keep a death grip on the handle bars, which can be very brutal for their hands. When you crash, your hands will be the first thing to hit the ground - and everyone crashes at some point. Mountain bike gloves are a must have accessory, as they will take the beating for you.
Mountain bike shorts
After the first few mountain bike rides you take, you'll notice that your rear end will be quite uncomfortable. Even though your body will adjust, bike shorts are great to have as they will help keep it at a bare minimum. You can get shorts that are very comfortable, making them a great addition to your mountain bike ride.
Mountain bike shoes
Depending on the type of pedals you have and the type of riding you do, you'll want to pick your mountain bike shoes accordingly. If your bike has clipless type pedals, you'll want to get shoes to accept the special cleat for your pedals. Good mountain bike shoes are durable, comfortable, and also a stiff sole for better efficiency when pedaling. Also, you should make sure to get the right shoe for the terrain you'll be riding in as well.
Eye protection
If you get something in your eye, you can run off the trail in a matter of seconds. Sunglasses or clear lensed glasses can help keep your eyes safe from debris, as well as protect them from the wind. When you buy your glasses, make sure they are non-breakable.
Hydration system
Bringing a water bottle or hydration backpack with you is always a great idea. It's very easy to get dehydrated so you should always bring water with you and drink it on the trail to ensure that your body stays properly hydrated at all times.
Trail repair kit
It's easy to get stuck in the woods or on the trail if you don't bring the proper repair kit for your bike. To be on the safe side, bring a multi-tool designed for bike repair, tire levers, and a patch kit for fixing flat tires.
These tips should help clear your vision on what equipment to get for your ride and keep spending down to a minimum on things you don't.
There are several mountain biking accessories and related products that you can purchase. Although
the sales staff will try to sell you anything they can, the real question for those on a budget isn't what's cool, but what accessories you need to make your rides more safe and enjoyable. By starting
with these accessories, you'll be just fine when you hit the trails.
Bike helmet
The bike helmet is the most important mountain biking accessory that you can buy. No one should ever be on a bike without a helmet. There have been many people who have experienced serious head injury, when it could have prevented by wearing a helmet. All mountain bike helmets are comfortable and stylish and everyone who rides on the trails wears one.
Mountain bike gloves
No matter what season you ride in, your hands can take a beating. Beginners will normally keep a death grip on the handle bars, which can be very brutal for their hands. When you crash, your hands will be the first thing to hit the ground - and everyone crashes at some point. Mountain bike gloves are a must have accessory, as they will take the beating for you.
Mountain bike shorts
After the first few mountain bike rides you take, you'll notice that your rear end will be quite uncomfortable. Even though your body will adjust, bike shorts are great to have as they will help keep it at a bare minimum. You can get shorts that are very comfortable, making them a great addition to your mountain bike ride.
Mountain bike shoes
Depending on the type of pedals you have and the type of riding you do, you'll want to pick your mountain bike shoes accordingly. If your bike has clipless type pedals, you'll want to get shoes to accept the special cleat for your pedals. Good mountain bike shoes are durable, comfortable, and also a stiff sole for better efficiency when pedaling. Also, you should make sure to get the right shoe for the terrain you'll be riding in as well.
Eye protection
If you get something in your eye, you can run off the trail in a matter of seconds. Sunglasses or clear lensed glasses can help keep your eyes safe from debris, as well as protect them from the wind. When you buy your glasses, make sure they are non-breakable.
Hydration system
Bringing a water bottle or hydration backpack with you is always a great idea. It's very easy to get dehydrated so you should always bring water with you and drink it on the trail to ensure that your body stays properly hydrated at all times.
Trail repair kit
It's easy to get stuck in the woods or on the trail if you don't bring the proper repair kit for your bike. To be on the safe side, bring a multi-tool designed for bike repair, tire levers, and a patch kit for fixing flat tires.
These tips should help clear your vision on what equipment to get for your ride and keep spending down to a minimum on things you don't.
Thursday 13 February 2014
How The Gears Of Your Bike Work
With the evolution of the sports and activity mountain bikes have developed and become more fancy in their design. Today we can see bikes having as many as 27 different gears to help aid the rider with their challenge of getting up and down a mountain. Some of you might actually be interested in how the gears work and if so keep reading on...
The idea behind all these gears is to allow the rider to crank the pedals at a constant pace no matter what kind of slope the bike is on. You can understand this better by picturing a bike with just a single gear. Each time you rotate the pedals one turn, the rear wheel would rotate one turn as well (1:1 gear ratio).
If the rear wheel is 26 inches in diameter, then with 1:1 gearing, one full twist on the pedals would result in the wheel covering 81.6 inches of ground. If you are pedaling at a speed of 50 RPM, this means that the bike can cover over 340 feet of ground per minute. This is only 3.8 MPH, which is the equivalence of walking speed. This is ideal for climbing a steep hill, although bad for ground or going downhill.
To go faster you'll need a different ratio. To ride downhill at 25 MPH with a 50 RPM cadence at the
pedals, you'll need a 5.6:1 gear ratio. A bike with a lot of gears will give you a large number of increments between a 1:1 gear ratio and a 6.5:1 gear ratio so that you can always pedal at 50 RPM,
no matter how fast you are actually going.
On a normal 27 speed mountain bike, six of the gear ratios are so close to each other that you can't notice any difference between them.
With actual use, bike riders tend to choose a front sprocket suitable for the slope they are riding on
and stick with it, although the front sprocket can be difficult to shift under heavy load. It's much
easier to shit between the gears on the rear.
If you are cranking up a hill, it's best to choose the smallest sprocket on the front then shift between the nine gears available on the rear. The more speeds you have on the back sprocket, the bigger advantage you'll have.
All in all, gears are very important to mountain bikes as they dictate your overall speed. Without gears you wouldn't be able to build speed nor would you be able to pound pedals. The gears will move the pedals and help you build up speed.
There are all types of gears available in mountain bikes, all of which will help you build up a lot of momentum if you use them the right way.
Hopefully that has satisfied any questions or thoughts you had about the gears of a mountain bike
The idea behind all these gears is to allow the rider to crank the pedals at a constant pace no matter what kind of slope the bike is on. You can understand this better by picturing a bike with just a single gear. Each time you rotate the pedals one turn, the rear wheel would rotate one turn as well (1:1 gear ratio).
If the rear wheel is 26 inches in diameter, then with 1:1 gearing, one full twist on the pedals would result in the wheel covering 81.6 inches of ground. If you are pedaling at a speed of 50 RPM, this means that the bike can cover over 340 feet of ground per minute. This is only 3.8 MPH, which is the equivalence of walking speed. This is ideal for climbing a steep hill, although bad for ground or going downhill.
To go faster you'll need a different ratio. To ride downhill at 25 MPH with a 50 RPM cadence at the
pedals, you'll need a 5.6:1 gear ratio. A bike with a lot of gears will give you a large number of increments between a 1:1 gear ratio and a 6.5:1 gear ratio so that you can always pedal at 50 RPM,
no matter how fast you are actually going.
On a normal 27 speed mountain bike, six of the gear ratios are so close to each other that you can't notice any difference between them.
With actual use, bike riders tend to choose a front sprocket suitable for the slope they are riding on
and stick with it, although the front sprocket can be difficult to shift under heavy load. It's much
easier to shit between the gears on the rear.
If you are cranking up a hill, it's best to choose the smallest sprocket on the front then shift between the nine gears available on the rear. The more speeds you have on the back sprocket, the bigger advantage you'll have.
All in all, gears are very important to mountain bikes as they dictate your overall speed. Without gears you wouldn't be able to build speed nor would you be able to pound pedals. The gears will move the pedals and help you build up speed.
There are all types of gears available in mountain bikes, all of which will help you build up a lot of momentum if you use them the right way.
Hopefully that has satisfied any questions or thoughts you had about the gears of a mountain bike
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)